What is the Best Mattress Out There For Lower Back and Hip Pain?
January 26, 2012 | 
Author Suffering from lower back and hip pain but no amount of pain reliever can alleviate it? The problem might just be in your mattress. You are probably using a mattress way too soft for support.
The first mistake we make when choosing a mattress is going for those that have a softer feel to it. It might have brought you to slumberland when you were younger but as you get older, you need more support to your back.
The best mattress for this problem is a semi-firm mattress. Many would probably go for a firm mattress but to sleep experts, your body still needs just the right balance of comfort and support.
A firm mattress is alright as long as it has 5 pounds of density and no more. If it exceeds that, it may be too firm to provide the comfort to the lower part of our body that we need.
Latex is a good choice for semi-firm mattresses. It has always been an optimum choice for those who suffer from body aches and pains. Latex material is slightly more bouncy. It has a density level of 4 pounds and below so it is not too firm.
The foam itself is riddled with pincore holes. These holes give it the edge over other types of mattresses. This is the one that provides you the comfort that you need to your lower back and the support you need to your upper body. Some parts are integrated with smaller holes while other parts have bigger holes. The result is a comfortable mattress that still provides a good amount of support.
Another reason why this is a good choice for back ache sufferers is because it is a breathable mattress. Remember those times you wake up on a hot summer morning with your back feeling as though it is baked in an oven? This actually contributes to back ache.
But since this mattress has pincore holes, it allows air to dissipate inside and flow in and out better. This way, temperature is properly regulated. And when temperature is regulated, you will have better and back ache-free sleep.
The next time you shop for a new mattress, do yourself a favour and go for a semi-firm mattress such as a latex mattress. Survey the foams included in the mattress including how large or how small the holes integrated are to know how much comfort and support it can give you.
RV Slide Out Toppers
First came the slide out, dramatically increasing inside living space of the modern RV. It did not take long for RV awning manufacturers such as Dometic’s A&E and Carefree of Colorado to recognize and seize upon an opportunity and the slide out cover was born.
Attaching to the outside of the slide room and on an awning rail mounted on the RV just above the slide room while utilizing a awning roller tube always under tension the slide topper awning automatically rolls up as the slide room is retracted. The sales pitch for slide topper covers are many and I would like to cover these from my perspective, that of an RV technician.
Slide covers provide an obvious benefit of keeping all sorts of debris such as tree limbs, twigs, and leaves off the slide roof because most of us do not crawl up on our roofs to inspect our slides every time we are ready to move our RV. The upper slide seal is particularly vulnerable to foreign debris so its paramount the top of the slide is clean as it is retracted. It is difficult enough to keep outdoor elements out of your RV in the slide areas so these areas need to be protected as best as possible.
Another benefit is keeping direct sunlight off the top of the slide. Some RV manufacturers utilize a “tape seal” on the outside seam of the roof that will dry and crack with repeated exposure to direct sunlight. In addition, anytime you can provide an atmosphere of shade to anything you have just prolonged the life of the object, slides included.
Slide covers provide real benefits and certainly are worth the investment. I am amused however by some of the other sales pitches, which I think, should be taken with a grain of salt.
A sales pitch easily sold is the one where they profess slide toppers help keep water off the slide and helps prevent leaks around the slide room. Perhaps… if you have rain falling neatly at a perfect 90 degree angle to the ground, but I am still waiting to observe such a phenomenon. After most rains there will be water on the slide roof and after a rainstorm you can bet on it. In the case of snow, I would rather see snow on the awning rather than the room.
Here is a good one! Slide covers keep your slide room cool and comfortable. Maybe…but I doubt it. I could be wrong but I do not see the slide cover making an appreciable difference in inside temperatures.
In conclusion, slide covers are certainly worth the investment, which is why you see them on most RV’s today. On lower end units manufacturers will tend to leave them off primarily to make the RV that much more affordable but sooner or later many consumers will have them installed. Naturally, with slide covers you have one more item to be maintained so I must address the issue of durability of the awning material. There are many different grades and types of material used but acrylic and vinyl are the most prevalent.
Truthfully, awning covers take a beating from both the sun and the wind and the complaints are numerous concerning OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturers) material. Be aware that heavier fabric and tighter webbing is better when replacing awning material.
Why Does Buying a "Green" Mattress Cost So Much Green?
OK, you’ve heard the stories and seen enough testimonials online to convince you that you need to “green up” your bedroom sleeping arrangements. Too many toxins in the air and seems like much of it is coming from your chemically laden mattress and pillows. Out with the nasty stuff and in with the new “Eco friendly” green mattress.
After hours and sometimes days of research online one type of mattress rises as the cream of the crop. Over and over again people are raving about their new latex foam mattress. Comfortable, durable, no harsh chemicals, or bad smells, etc. Seems like the perfect bed, until the price tag is revealed. Why is it “going green” has to cost so dang much? Answer is simple, green is good business these days. Yep, you see these new specialty stores popping up all over the place. Organic this and all natural that and bring your America Express card which we will gladly except for your overpriced purchases. I’m sick of it!
As a mattress manufacturer for over 30 years now I’ve seen it all. First the waterbeds, then pillow-tops, then air beds and now memory foam. I don’t blame my industry for trying to reinvent themselves every decade after all, you either evolve or you revolve. That leads us to the newest innovation, the “green” mattress. Usually comprising of all natural talalay latex or similar version of dunlop latex foam. Even certified organic cotton covers are now available with USDA Certified Organic Latex just now arriving at the docks. Imagine what these mattresses are going to cost you.
Did you know that latex foam mattresses were very popular back in the 60′s and early 70′s and that many of these mattresses are still being used today? That’s right and then poof, they were gone. They pretty much disappeared from the American marketplace after a huge fire destroyed the one and only latex mattress core supplier in 1975. Like a Phoenix rising from the ashes latex reemerged in the late 90′s when Latex International established a factory in Connecticut. So why then has it taken over 10 years for these beds to once again join the mainstream in the mattress showrooms across the states?
Latex mattresses are just bad for business due to their durability. Think about it, isn’t the planned obsolescence of a pillow top style mattress much better for business? The major mattress producers sure thought so. We even saw it with the car industry when GM recalled all their EV1 electric cars back in the 90′s because of the lack of maintenance or repair work. Well you can’t stop progress or the information super highway.
When companies started selling latex foam mattresses online back in 1998 it was a very slow process because most of the baby boomers had never even heard of such a thing called a latex mattress, after all they disappeared in 1975 for the most part. Mattress companies persisted in offering these great foam beds to the general public and slowly but surely they started to gain popularity again. You still couldn’t find them in most mattress showrooms, but you could buy them online. Once the information started to leak out about the return of these great latex beds people started to ask for them in the local mattress showrooms. Major manufacturers were reluctant to bring them back but with enough pressure from the public they had no choice but to join in the parade.
For the last 10 years I have seen a consistent rise in demand for all natural latex mattresses but what ticks me off is the ridiculous prices being charged by the major manufacturers. The reason is obvious, one and your done. No repeat customer every five years like in the past. So let’s just charge twice as much to make up for it. Yeah, that’s the ticket. Well enough is enough. The Internet has arrived and those of you who take your time, study the facts, compare apples to apples, will find a few of us out there offering these great “green” latex foam mattresses at honest prices. One and done, sure. But I bet you have friends and relatives that would like one of these all natural talalay or dunlop latex foam mattresses at a price you can still afford.
So there you have it, why going “green” can be so expensive, at least when it comes to buying a new mattress.. Do yourself a big favor and search out a company who can honestly cut out the middleman and you’ll save a lot of “green” yourself.
Pros and Cons – Sleep Number Bed Review
People who are planning to buy a bed would probably look for a sleep number bed review. The good news for people who plan to purchase this type of bed is that the company allows the interested customer to take the bed home and test it for thirty nights. They call this the thirty-night challenge. Many people have grabbed this opportunity to try out the bed. These people found some positive and negative sides to this bed.
A sleep number bed review will tell you that this type of bed is good for allergies. The air bladder does not hold dust mites and the covers can be put in the washer. This bed is comfortable because you can have a stiffer or softer sleep when you want to. It would be better if you do not change the firmness level too frequently. This bed will give the person sleeping on it the most comfortable sleep that they can have.
This bed also has the capability to reduce the uncomfortable pressure points that can lead to tossing and turning during sleep. It contours to your body, which allows for superior comfort and excellent back support.
The sleep number bed is built for two people because of its ability to adjust either side of the bed to the person’s particular preference. Thus, if two people are sleeping on the bed, they can have one side with a different firmness or softness or even a different elevation than the other side depending on the person’s needs. The numbers of the bed refer to the firmness of the mattress.
A sleep number bed review showed that people, who experienced back pain or other aches and pains in the morning, support the idea that sleeping in this type of bed has reduced their aches and pains. This bed allows a person to have a comfortable night sleep. Most aches and pains experienced by an individual are usually caused by uncomfortable sleeping habits.
The disadvantage though is that the softness or hardness of the bed changes slightly with air temperature and barometric pressure. Thus, if it is raining, the mattress will feel slightly stiffer. If it is clear, the mattress will feel slightly softer.
Another disadvantage of this bed that people should know about is that the air mattress used with this bed will naturally lose air over time and air will need to be added to compensate this. Some surveys have shown that some sleep number bed owners have experienced frequent and significant air loss. However, this might be due to faulty air pumps and connections and not merely permeation or air loss.
People might also experience a trench in the middle of the bed. This is noticeable when the two chambers of the bed had very different firmness levels. This trench could undermine the bed’s comfort and discourage intimate encounters among couples.
Another disadvantage found during a sleep number bed review is that the price of the bed is quite high. This is due to the technology used in the bed. Consumers should not worry too much about the price as the purchase of this bed also includes a 20-year guarantee. Knowing some of the pros and cons of this bed, the decision to purchase is up to you.
Mattress Reviews – Simmons Vs Sealy Vs Serta Mattress
We cannot say for certain which between Simmons, Sealy and Serta is the better mattress. I cannot speak for you on what can bring you more comfort when you are sleeping. In fact, it is difficult to find a mattress that provides all the things we need.
However, to answer the question “which is a better choice”, I would have to say Sealy. Mind that I have only arrived to this conclusion due to the lesser complaints thrown at this company and the higher satisfaction rating they have received. When one is comparing, one should look at the bigger picture.
There really is not that much of a difference. Only that, each have a specific attribute that they excel on. For instance, Simmons offers better spring beds with their beautyrest line. Sealy offers better memory foam and latex technology with their posturepedic line. Serta is just in between.
What you might want to consider is what mattress can provide you with the comfort you are looking for. If you cannot personally test the bed or sleep on top of it for a few minutes, read reviews. This would be a bigger risk since you are not personally testing the mattress out, only taking into consideration the opinions of other people who have closely the same preferences as you are. Remind yourself that comfort is relative.
As for the other essential mattress pointers, Sealy is leading the race. For one thing, there is almost a unanimous agreement that this company has the best customer service. We all know how difficult it is to complain about your purchase once you have already sealed it. It is easier to buy something than return it when it proves to be a useless pile of foams.
According to some people, Serta has the worst customer service saying that their representatives will have to ask how severe the damage is to the mattress. If the bed is not damaged enough to their estimation, you will have to pay for some service charge to get someone to fix it for you. Also, the return delivery charge falls on the shoulder of the consumer. If you happen to have bought a heavy beds, you will have to spend more on shipping.
I am not an expert in consumer guides but I know for a fact that it is better to choose a reliable company that will not lead you to a merry chase when it comes to its warranty. This is probably why Sealy has been putting the others in the shade for quite some time now. They place the interest of their consumers first above everything else to make certain that they will come back and buy again from them. That is the whole logic of the over-all satisfaction rating. When more consumers are satisfied, more will recommend it and more will keep on coming back.
So in general, you have to test the comfort of the mattress first and get to know more about the reputation of the mattress brand before giving your plastic and have them charge you with thousands of dollars.
What’s the Best Mattress for Heavy People?
In my 35 years within the mattress industry I have seen mattresses get destroyed by heavy people. Is it their fault? No, it’s the fault of the manufacturers for not making sturdy mattresses to accommodate a larger person. Seems comfort trumps durability in the mattress world so the best mattress for heavy people is one that is rock hard and not comfortable, or is it?
For years the only type of mattress that could hold up to a heavy person was a spring mattress that had extra firm coils and extra firm padding making it unbearable to sleep on. However, the best mattress for heavy people is not made of steel springs nor memory foam, but rather a product of Mother Nature herself, rubber.
Latex foam rubber is made from tree sap (milk) from the rubber trees found mostly in Malaysia, Sri Lanka and India. Latex mattresses have been around for decades and their durability is legendary. I have personally seen these mattresses exceed 50 years of use. What makes them the best mattress for heavy people is the density of this amazing product. For example, most quality sofa cushions are made using 1.8 lb polyfoam. As you know these cushions usually last between 5 and 10 years before starting to collapse. Just imagine how long a foam that was 2 ½ times heavier would perform in the long haul and you have the reason why latex is so durable.
Ok, so now it’s no secret why latex can outlast any other product but what about the comfort? Does the best mattress for heavy people need to be rock hard like a spring mattress? No, latex mattresses offer BOTH comfort and durability coming in a variety of firmness levels. Some manufacturers even offer different firmness levels for each half of the bed so if a heavy person is partnered with a much lighter person, each can have their own choice. Try getting that from a spring or memory foam bed.
What’s the Best Mattress For Heavy People in Latex Choices?
This is a question I get asked often. Since there are two types of processes for latex, Dunlop and Talalay, each has its own unique properties. Dunlop latex is denser and makes it the most popular choice for back sleepers who are heavy. Talalay latex is less dense and more airy making it a better choice for lighter folks and those who like to sleep on their side. Talalay does come in firmer densities as well and can be tailored for a heavy person who also likes to sleep on their side. The talalay process with be the best option if getting a mattress with different firmnesses fits your needs.
In conclusion let me just say that I am sick and tired of talking to folks who tell me their new mattress only lasted 6 months and now they can’t return it or they can only exchange it for another one of the same model which will do exactly the same thing over and over. Nonsense, save yourself the frustration and just go out and buy the best mattress for heavy people in the first place, a latex mattress.
What Type of Mattress is Best For a 3 Year Old?
3-year old kids can virtually fall asleep on any surface. However, this should not mean that you will just let them sleep just about anywhere. Their comfort is still of utmost importance if you do not want them to wake up feeling cranky. The expression “waking up on the wrong side of the bed” literally applies to them.
So anyway, what exactly is the best one? There are so many options today including air mattress, innerspring mattress, memory foam mattress and latex mattress. Many parents purchase air mattresses especially those with cartoon character prints.
This is a practical choice as kids tend to outgrow their beds in no time. This is a good option for you but make sure it is also comfortable. Check some reviews and find the ones that have been labelled comfortable by consumers. Make sure the materials are also non-allergenic. PVC materials are often used for inflatable beds but these can trigger allergic reactions.
What is great about inflatable beds is that they are water proof. If you child wets on the bed, you can easily clean it. This is difficult to do with other mattresses.
Innerspring mattresses are not goof for playful kids as they tend to jump on this soft mattress. This will lead to mattress depression which will then lead to back pains. If you want to choose this bed, make sure it has less springs integrated. With more springs, the thinner springs are integrated. Less springs mean thicker springs are used which will give the mattress a desired level of firmness. A firm surface is also ideal for children as they need back support.
Memory foam is ideal for back pain. However, this may not be a good choice for kids as they are loaded with all sorts of chemical. The chemical content of this mattress may trigger allergic reactions.
The last choice, but definitely not the least is latex. This has been coined as the best mattress for kids because of its lack of chemical content. The mattress is naturally hypoallergenic. Also, the density of the mattress is just right for kids. It is not too firm and not too soft so kids can have the most relaxing sleep.
I would have to say latex mattress is a worthy investment. It has a long life so you can use it for your next children or sell it when your child outgrows the mattress. You can also purchase an adult size already and this will be your kid’s mattress for many years to come.
Exterior Basement Waterproofing Demystified
If you are considering Exterior (Outside) WaterproofingYou Owe it to Yourself to:READ THIS NOW!!!
Don’t Pay to Fix Your Basement Twice Like Many, Many of our Past Customers Who Hired Substandard Contractors (Some of them Large Companies With Fancy Marketing and Slick Salesmen)!!!
In Order to Help You Wade Through All The B.S. (That’s Baloney Stuff, Folks!) in Your Estimates and Understand This Kind of Project:
I Will Explain to You Why Most Companies Who Call Themselves Basement Waterproofers Aren’t Actually Waterproofers;And I Will Explain The Systems Commonly Employed Nationally Especially What is WRONG With Them;
I will Explain How To Fix Your Problems;And What We Recommend that You Do Differently
First. what is commonly described as basement waterproofing is to actually excavate the foundation, meaning the foundation is dug up. In other words it means: to remove all the dirt for a couple of feet all the way around the house all the way down to the bottom of the footing.This is generally referred to as waterproofing ( but I can assure you that the way its done nationally typically, IT ISN’T). Most of the guys that do this are small 1-8 men outfits. They learned to do what they do, from someone who learned it from someone etc.
When a basement is built what the code minimums require is damp proofing. Damp proofing is to trowel a mortar parge coat on the wall which is basically trowelling mortar on the wall like stucco; then applying a damproof tar or asphalt sealant.This basic technique has been used for the last 100 years.
Just imagine all of the advances that have been made in the last hundred years yet builders still seal the wall using this archaic process!It is Guaranteed to fail every time; in fact in Cleveland, Ohio alone there are over 125 water-proofing companies in the yellow pages !!! What these “so-called water-proofers” do is dig up the basement and actually RE-APPLY the EXACT SAME SEALANTS and utilize the exact same techniques that already FAILED in the first place!
Does that make any sense whatsoever???
This usually means re-parging the wall with porous mortar and smearing some tar on it like a monkey! Have you ever known anyone that had an asphalt driveway? How often did they Have-To Re- Seal it? I can tell you I have, known many people with black top drives. When I was a kid growing up two of my neighbors had an ongoing debate about their driveways.
The first neighbor swore you needed to seal it every single year, and he did. The second neighbor swore every two years was enough.
I can still hear them arguing now in my mind’s eye… LOL.The sad truth is that according to the US Bureau of Standards asphalt sealants begin to break down in only 18 months, YIKES! You see the sad truth is they were both right!
And these so called water-proofers charge an average of ten to fifteen grand just to dig up the basement and seal it again using what FAILED already… You See Tar Has Never Been Rated as Waterproof. When I discovered this, it sent my head spinning! You see the reason why was, that every single “waterproofer” I knew used tar (asphalt based sealants)!!
They couldn’t ALL be wrong…. Or could they????? Did you know that in the building codes there are actually two separate definitions for damp-proofing (tar) and waterproofing. Damp proofing: by definition means “something that helps to slow the penetration of water into the substrate”.
HHMMM “helps to slow” sounds quite different than the definition of; Waterproofing: “something that prevents the penetration of water” and further must pass a bending test where the membrane must be able to be bent around a cylinder.
Water proof sealants are almost all exclusively used and installed COMMERCIALLY…(that’s because they are more expensive).The extra costs are what stop the average contractor from offering you , the homeowner, a product that is effective and will last and “stand the test of time”. We developed and recommend you use MULTI-STEP EXTERIOR WATERPROOFING SYSTEM which, uses a cement-based fiber re-enforced wall resurfacing system and NO LESS than two waterproof rated sealants.This is by no means the cheapest of methods, however, and it may or may not be the BEST system to put into place. Which system you should use depends entirely on the specific nature of YOUR problem. There are NO miracle systems than can solve ALL basement problems.
The thing I can guarantee is if you install a true outside waterproofing system, it will actively drain water away from the foundation, and the water leak will be a thing of the past, not only that, but better sealants will outlast the wood on your house GUARANTEED!
I’d like to tell you a story you’ve got to hear about a job I recently did for a Mr. Ron Sewyak on state route 20 in Oberlin.This is a sad story about a man who had to have his basement fixed THREE TIMES in ten short years!!!! Mr Sewyak had had the walls of his home rebuilt ten years ago using conventional masonry techniques.They were rebuilt using 12″ blocks and type n mortar. A conventional parge coat was applied and tar. New tiles and backfill were added. This is what is considered “outside waterp-proofing”. Four years later the walls were leaking again!!! Exasperated the homeowner had Ohio State Waterproofing install their inside outside “waterproofing system” (inside) and they hoped their problems were over.
Again he thought his problem was solved!
Sadly, I met Ron a few months ago.He asked me to come out to his house because his basement walls were severely bowed bulging and shifted off the first course and out of plumb.I was able to observe portions of the outside “waterproofing ” system from ten years ago and the inside/outside system from six years ago both had fatal flaws but…. Neither system was the cause of the problem. After careful inspection I assessed the real problem—-BAD FRAMING!!!!That’s right, it turned out that the first contractor (who did many things poorly) built the walls directly back up to and underneath the existing framing deficiency which caused the wall system to fail in the first place! bA partial sill plate and a lack of cribbing on the gable end walls were behind their basements problems from the beginning. After the first winter ten years ago, the newly re-built wall began to crack… this opened water ways which made the walls leak. Ron’s second contractor performed an inside system which, while done poorly, also stopped active water puddles on the floor.Unfortunately it did nothing to stop the structural issues, which worsened and worsened, until he was forced to call me.
So in a ten year period the walls have been repaired three times!!!!
Can you imagine???
Fortunately, for Ron I fixed them once and for all by first correcting the framing issues and repairing the sill plate; then performing a complete excavation.Only once the earth was removed completely; all the way down to the bottom of the footer, was I able to push the walls back in line and use my surface bonding structural repair solution.bThen of course I applied three sealants to the wall one damp-proof two of them waterproof. Then I replaced the drainage system with new thick wall pipe and stone all the way to 12″ of grade separated from the top soil with filter fabric!!!!!
So why didn’t I fix them from the inside???
Because in his situation, it would not work; it was not the source of the problem.
I always recommend examining all of options .Then I tell them what I would do if I was in their shoes.Regardless of your suppositions, not all homeowners can afford an outside system…. worse… most outside contractors do not know how to install a true WATER-PROOFING system. So the poor homeowner is left buying a repair that involves excavating the wall and using the same techniques that FAILED ALREADY!!! If you are considering outside excavation and water-proofing you need to learn what makes a system actually waterproof and why actual waterproofing is the BEST and why you would never ever want any other technique to be attempted.To re-cap the typical outside waterproofing contractor first excavates the wall then applies a basic mortar parge. Mortar is very porous, it soaks up water like a sponge.
Some of the old timers will apply a Portland cement and ironite coating. This is Portland cement mixed with powdered iron ore filings. The idea is that as the iron ore filings oxidize they will expand helping to stop the absorption; while this is less porous than a plain mortar parge the fact it still soaks up water like a sponge. A better newer cement base coating is called thoro-seal it is a capillary blocked cement coating. While it is much better than an old fashioned mortar parge.
It is not however comparable to the first step in a Multi- Step system.
There are several reasons for this; namely that ordinary mortar parges rely on a porosity bond to adhere to the wall. This means it is a physical bond that is locked only into the nooks and crannies of the block face. The first coating that we apply and should be applied to the wall is a waterproofed below grade surface bonding cement. The product was originally developed to glue blocks together from the surface that had absolutely no mortar in between them. When used as a parge coat we mix it and recommend mixing it with an acrylic bonding adhesive, this gives it both porosity adhesion as well as a superior chemical adhesion to the wall; which really means once we put it on it is there to stay!
Next not only is it non-porous like thoro-seal it also is capable of holding a four foot head of water with out block penetration! That’s amazing! Not only is it more waterproof and chemically bonded to the wall, it is reinforced with thousands and thousands of tiny cat hair length nylon fibers, which make it incredibly tuff and strong!!! The manufacturer claims it is the only sealant required to keep the basement dry; why do we recommend two more coatings and recommend others do too????
Well the simple answer is concrete only based sealants have a fatal flaw namely expansion and contraction of the soil. You see concrete can always develop hairline cracks, which is the reason we go over it twice! Do you remember the story in the Bible when the Israelites were in captivity in Egypt?? They were forced to mixed straw fibers into the mud for making bricks…. You see the basic concept of introducing a fiber matrix into a masonry product to increase strength is very, very old!!!!
The next step that is done by most outside contractors is to spray or brush an asphalt (tar) based seal on the wall…. Just like the story from above about the two driveways, tar is not and never will be, waterproof!!! There are a few polymer modified tars that last slightly longer than basic tar but most are not rated for more than 60 months before they get hard set and crack!!!!
That’s only 5 years!!! Crazy!!! They can be marketed under names like Tuff-n-Dri and others but they are still inferior sealants.These guys then will cover the tar with either plastic sheeting or foam board.Plastic sheeting is a big booby trap that will separate from the tar as it hardens and then can trap water in between the wall and the plastic creating a worse problem than before the so called repair!!! The foam board will help to keep the tar from being scratched as it is being back-filled but is not waterproof and can often attract fungal growth between the foam and tar breaking the tar down even faster !!!
The next coating in a Multi-Step System is to apply either a vulcanized rubber or a flashing grade elasto-meric acrylic latex resin. Both are derived from latex rubber and truly deserve the moniker of Water Proof! Both were developed as an improvement to tar based flat roofing applications where the tar inevitably failed!!!!
The final coating we use and recommend others use was developed for underground parking garages and military bases, originally in Germany. A Canadian inventor then improved the technology and ironed out the rest of the bugs with the system so it would work permanently on regular houses. It is called an air-gap drainage membrane/ blanket system. It is the best membrane system ever developed in the authors opinion. There a many reasons why, but here are a few: it is made of polyethylene plastic which is terrible in our landfills because it does not break down but awesome as a waterproofing blanket as it will outlast the wood on your house guaranteed. It has no natural enemies other than sunlight and it is buried so it will never see the sun. It traps an air gap or blanket of air between the wall and the back fill dirt. It does this because of the thousands of dimples impressed into the membrane when it is being made. Even if the membrane is punctured it will not allow water penetration because unless the water is pressurized it cannot jump across an air gap.
After the wall is sealed the other aspects of a Multi Step System are also superior to typica damp proofing… including: We never recommend the use thin wall pipe only the thicker walled rigid pipes – this is so one never needs to worry about chunks in the backfill crushing the pipes . We always leave a geo-textile fabric under the pipes and recommend you should too, before adding the bed of stone being used to pitch the pipes, this prevents mud from clogging them and silt from migrating into them from underneath.We back fill the wall all the way to within a few feet of grade with clean stone and recommend that you do too,— this is to prevent the extra pressure from wet soil from being added to the wall itself!
Stone stacks on itself and drains, soil absorbs water weight!! We recommend that one separate the soil back fill over the stone ,from the stone, using the afore-mentioned geo-textile. This keeps the air gaps in the stone intact and prevents the soils from rinsing down into the stone bed and filling/clogging the drainage pipes!
One should always replace the downspout lines bedded in stone and never ever fill soil under new driveways or concrete patio pads instead one should use layers of compacted premium fill in these areas, to prevent settlement.
With this new found knowledge, After installing a mutistep exterior waterproofing system You can now feel confident and get the assurance that your basement will remain dry and can be re-modeled any way you like it! Remember you house is your biggest investment- when you need basement help, why skimp?
Posted in Latex Mattress Articles | 
Tags: Basement, Demystified, Exterior, Waterproofing | 
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Secrets of Painting Vinyl Siding
The popularity of vinyl siding with new construction started approximately 20 years ago. Recently, there have been many scientific breakthroughs that made vinyl siding almost maintenance free. However, if your vinyl siding home was built more than 20 years ago, the vinyl installed at that time did not have the advantages of our technological era. The factory finish is most likely faded and looking run down. You know that replacing your vinyl siding would be too expensive. You are lucky!. There is another way to make your vinyl siding look like new again – You can paint it! · You can change to a different color and
You can regain the fresh, new home look
Before you do any painting over your vinyl siding, talk to a professional. This will give you an idea of what the cost would be to hire someone to do it for you.
If you decide to paint, you will lose the maintenance free quality of vinyl. You might need to paint every 10 years.
The secret to painting your vinyl siding lies in the procedure.
1. Start by cleaning all the dirt and mildew accumulated through the years. The siding can be cleaned by hand scrubbing or by power washing it. There are many cleaners available at your local hardware store. After cleaning it, it is important to rinse it thoroughly. If you skip this step, the paint will not adhere to the surface. 2. You are now ready to paint!
a. Vinyl siding has a very high coefficient of elasticity. This means that it expands or contracts depending on the temperature. This quality makes it challenging to paint.
b. In you want your new painted surface to last a long time, you will need to chose a high grade acrylic latex paint. This paint has extraordinary bonding capabilities. It will expand and contract with the vinyl without cracking.
c. A new color scheme can also be used. However, the new color must be lighter than the original color. Each vinyl siding is manufactured to resist specific levels of heat. If you chose a darker color, your “new” siding will absorb more heat. This could have some ugly consequences – your siding might warp or buckle.
d. Try not to paint under the direct sunlight if possible. Overcast weather produces better results.
3. It is recommended that you apply two coats of paint. Two coats of paint will provide excellent adhesion and the flexibility needed on vinyl siding. It will also resist peeling and fading.
If you follow this procedure, your home will look like new again and your painting job will last approximately 10 years. In addition, you will have literally saved thousands of dollars avoiding a new vinyl siding job – Enjoy!
How to Make a Couch From a Twin Mattress
An average twin mattress measures about 39 inches by 75 inches. There are also those made slightly longer for people who are significantly taller. This is also a good size for a guest bed. But what if you are not using your twin mattress anymore?
Here is one good idea-you can use it as a couch. If it has a bed frame with it, make sure the ends are uniform with each other so it really looks like a real couch. Here are some more steps you can use:
Step 1: Go to the mattress store and pick up bed covers. If you can’t pick an attractive design that will suit well with your living room’s color scheme, you can always make your own. Just follow the pattern of the old bed skirt of your twin bed.
Step 2: Pick pillows, pillow cases and bolsters. It does not have to be the exact same color of the bed cover it can be a different shade. Also get pillow cases with prints so you can mix and match.
Step 3: Now dress the mattress with the mattress skirt and covers. Make sure you tuck the ends carefully so the seams are not showing or the ends are not dangling.
Step 4: Now you can place the bed frame with the long side to be fitted to the wall. The wall will serve as the back rest and the headboard and the footrest will serve as the arms of the “couch”. Place the mattress on the bed.
Step 5: Decorate the mattress with pillows. Prop the pillows to the walls and arrange them in a diagonal way. Mix and match the printed ones and the plain-colored ones. Place the bolsters in front or at the sides of the mattress.
Step 6: You might also want to put decorations at the wall. Put paintings with the same color scheme as the bed so you can tie the color up in your living room. You might also want to add a mattress topper to add height to the couch. This will also give more comfort to the mattress.
If you have guests over, this can again be transformed into a bed. You do not have to purchase a separate bed and a separate couch if you are on a tight budget. This way, you can save much on money plus you can get points for creativity.